How to Spend 7 Amazing Days in the Bernese Oberland
- Updated: 04/10/2024
- Janice
I spent a week hiking and exploring the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland with my husband, and it was the best week of my travel life. It may have also helped that this trip, which included a second week visiting Salzburg and Vienna, was our first big getaway without our kids.
From its stunning mountain views, crystal-clear lakes, and picture-perfect alpine villages, I share why the Bernese Oberland is the perfect place to lace up your hiking shoes and experience your own trip of a lifetime in this comprehensive guide.
Additionally, I provide detailed information to help you understand how to get there, tips for visiting, where to stay, and how to best spend your time so you can make the most out of your visit.
Table Of Contents
Why You Should Visit the Jungfrau Region
On sunny clear days in the Bernese Oberland, specifically, the smaller Jungfrau region where we chose to spend our time, expect to see stunningly beautiful alpine scenery. Envision green valleys covered in wildflowers ringing with the gentle sound of cows grazing in bells. And behind them—white-capped peaks dotted with thundering falls. Its surroundings will take your breath away with its natural and pastoral beauty.
This area is also a hiking paradise and home to iconic hiking trails in Switzerland, such as the famous Eiger Trail, offering breathtaking views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau mountains. And best of all, whatever your skill level—from expert hiker to casual stroller—there is a well-marked and maintained trail serving up beautiful views and hearty snacks at an alp (mountain restaurant), perfect for you.
To add to the alpine allure, when not hiking, you can choose to stay in one of several picture-book Swiss villages filled with chalets covered with cascading flowers that offer rooms with breathtaking views and with restaurants offering Swiss classics such as rösti, raclette, and fondue.
Where is the Bernese Oberland?
The Jungfrau region of the Bernese Oberland is in west central Switzerland, south of Zurich, and east of Geneva. Interlaken, on the land bridge between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, is the busy gateway city for this area.
From the Interlaken train station, you can travel the two valleys that sit at the foot of the massive Mönch, Eiger, and Jungfrau mountains and that make up the Jungfrau area, where you can explore the towns, villages, and hiking trails at higher elevations.
The best way to get a sense of the area—short of being there in person—is via a map. Watch this Google Earth video for a quick tour starting with Interlaken into the Lauterbrunnen Valley and back down toward Interlaken and around to the Lutschental Valley to Grindelwald.
How big is the Jungfrau region? At 217 square miles (350 square kilometers) this area is bordered by Interlaken, with Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, to the north. And to the south—the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau mountains. Engelberg and Sörenberg are to the east. The villages of Grindelwald, Wengen, Mürren, Lauterbrunnen, and Haslital, among other smaller hamlets, are within the region.
How to Get Around the Bernese Oberland: Swiss Train Pass Overview
A vast system of trains, buses, cable cars, and funiculars connects the towns and villages within the Jungfrau region. For an analogy, if you have visited a major city such as New York or Paris and used the subway or the metro, picture the city or transit map. Then, think of the Jungfrau region as a similar, albeit a more spread-out 3D alpine version with pricier fares of the same thing, connecting lightly populated villages and hamlets instead of densely packed boroughs and arrondissements.
To get around the Jungfrau region, you can buy one of two types of multi-day travel passes—the Berner Oberland Pass, sold by SBB, the national Swiss train company, or the Jungfrau Travel Pass, sold by Jungfrau Railways, a private company.
Or you can buy one-off tickets as you need them. How you decide to travel around the region and whether you decide to buy a pass depends on how long you plan to stay and where you plan to go. For example, we did not buy a pass for our trip, mainly because I did not think we would use the trains and cable cars to crisscross the valleys and return from hiking trails as extensively as we did.
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Instead, we used the SBB EasyRide tool, available via the SBB (Swiss national train) app. It is a convenient feature within the app that allows riders to buy only the tickets they need.
How it works: Users (connected to a cellular network) swipe when starting a ride, creating a scannable QR ticket. Then, upon completing a ride, they swipe out, getting billed for the routes traveled. We found this pay-as-you-go system to work well for our needs. Additionally, we did not mind paying extra to stay connected to the Swiss cellular network as this was an expense we already planned for to be in contact with kids and work.
Though post-trip, and out of curiosity, I wanted to know if I overpaid buying single-ride tickets vs. a pass. So, I calculated how much we spent paying outright for each ticket vs. what I would have spent purchasing a pass.
Here is what I found for the routes we traveled. If I had bought the Berner Oberland Pass from SBB, the national Swiss train company, vs. individual tickets, it would have cost me a negligible 4 CHF (~4.5 USD) more, mainly because I would have had to buy a more expensive 8-day pass as SBB does not offer a 7-day one.
Alternatively, given my travel days (seven) and heavy usage of trains and cable cars, I could have saved 72 CHF (~80 USD) per person if I had bought the 7-day Jungfrau Travel Pass.
How to Get to the Bernese Oberland by Train or Car
The Jungfrau region of the Bernese Oberland is easily accessible by train from major Swiss cities like Zurich and Geneva. Or by car—though know certain villages such as Mürren are car-free, and you must leave your vehicle parked in Lauterbrunnen or Stechelberg if you plan to visit or stay overnight. We journeyed to the area from Zurich, catching a ridiculously convenient train directly from the Zurich Airport.
Coming from Zurich, the most scenic parts of the ride began at the top of Lake Thun into Interlaken, the lowest elevation gateway town for the region, and one that we skipped entirely to head on directly to Lauterbrunnen.
From Interlaken and into both Jungfrau valleys, expect the views to get even better. We used the EasyRide swipe function on the Swiss train SBB app to purchase tickets as needed. You can also buy travel passes, which I explain in the “Getting Around” section above. These passes are usable for most train lines, cable cars, and most of the bus routes in the region.
8 Essential Things to Know Before You Visit the Bernese Oberland
If you are a first-time visitor to the Jungfrau region of the Bernese Oberland, here are eight tips to help you make the most of your trip.
- You will be in the mountains where the weather and the temperature can change rapidly. Pack for all climates, from scorching mountain sun to windy rain and chilly temperatures. Bring a daypack with drinking water, snacks, and clothing layers on all hikes. Include a rain jacket too.
- You can use the impressively engineered transportation system in the region, which includes trains, busses, funiculars, and cable cars, as you would an (expensive) subway in any major metropolitan area. To get around, use the SBB Mobile EasyRide app, or buy a multi-day pass such as the Jungfrau Travel Pass or Berner Oberland Pass. Both include unlimited rides on most transit lines within the consecutive days of a multi-day pass.
- Ask your hotel proprietors for advice. It is likely that the hotel owners, managers, or staff can offer you great recommendations on activities and hiking trails. The two sets of owners of our hotels in Mürren (Hotel Alplenblick) and in Grindelwald (Hotel Gleschergarten) were gold mines of information and assistance. Their advice heavily influenced what we did each day.
- Along with advice, get local maps for hiking trails, and use the AllTrails app. I prefer to pay for the AllTrails+ subscription, which allows me to download contour maps for our designated hikes and GPS-track our progress while in airplane mode, saving battery. When in Switzerland, I used AllTrails extensively to route, track, and record our hikes.
Take advantage of the alps (self-serve or serviced mountain hut restaurants) along your trails for lunch and snacks. Consider planning your hikes around them. Enjoying a meal at these mountain restaurants that serve delicious food with unbelievable views may end up being a highlight of your trip.
While in the region, make dinner reservations. Even if you make them a few hours before dinner, which we did several times. Restaurants in the area will heavily prioritize reservations over walk-ins, sometimes leaving up to a 30-minute grace period for reserved tables. You may not be able to eat at a restaurant without one. To make a reservation, call or email in advance. Many area dining establishments do not use an online booking system. Or ask if your hotel can help you book a reservation if you do not have one.
Many hotels may be willing to transfer your bags to your next hotel if it is in a Jungfrau town for a small fee (15 CHF or less per bag) via the train system and its attached luggage car. We used this service at Hotel Alpenblick in Mürren to send our bags to Hotel Bären in Wegnen without us. This convenient service allowed us to spend the day hiking instead of dragging luggage. Your hotel may not advertise this feature, so if interested, ask if it is an option.
If you are concerned about being affected by high elevations, know that the highest elevation village with year-round residency in the Jungfrau is Mürren, at 5,450 feet (or 1,661 meters). This height is much lower than for U.S. Rocky Mountain towns such as Vail (8,150 feet) or Aspen (8,000 feet), where the effects of high elevations can often disrupt sleep and cause headaches to visitors acclimatized to lower elevations.
7-Day Bernese Oberland Itinerary: Overview
During our week in the Bernese Oberland, we stayed two nights in Mürren at Hotel Alpenblick, two nights in Wengen at Hotel Bären, and three nights in Grindelwald at Hotel Gletschergarten.
Here is an at-a-glance view of what we did each day.
Day 1: Arrival, Train from Zurich to Lauterbrunnen & Mürren
Day 2: Hiking Above Mürren: The Northface & Mountain View Trails
Day 3: The Schilthorn & Hiking Männlichen to Kliene Schiedegg
Day 4: The Leiterhorn Loop, Trümmelbach Falls & Gimmelwald
Day 5: Laundry in Lauterbrunnen & the Pfingstegg to Oberer Gletscher Hike in Grindelwald
Day 6: Hiking Bussalp to Bort to Bachalpsee & Joining the Wednesday Street Festival
Day 7: Hiking the Eiger Trail from Alpiglen to Eigergletscher
A Week in the Bernese Oberland: Day-by-Day Detail
Find an overview for how we spent each of our seven days in the Bernese Oberland in the sections that follow. Or view the detail in the map below.
How to use this map: In the map header, click the square tab to the left of my logo or click the enlarge frame to the right to view detail. You can save the map to “Your Places” on Google Maps by clicking the star next to the map name. Or you can share it by clicking the share icon.
Day 1: Arrival, Train from Zurich to Lauterbrunnen & Mürren
- Arrive in Zurich. Take a train from the airport to Lauterbrunnen.
- Enjoy lunch on the Hotel Schützen patio and walk to Staubbach Falls.
- Take the cable car to Grütschalp. Transfer to Mürren via a narrow-gauge train.
- Check-in at Hotel Alpenblick in Mürren.
- Explore Mürren. Soak in the views with a drink on the Hotel Alpina patio.
- Return to Hotel Alpenblick for dinner.
- Total steps = 14,133
When our nonstop flight to Switzerland from Chicago got delayed a day, we missed our overnight stay in Lauterbrunnen—a Berner Oberland village in the picturesque Lauterbrunnen Valley rumored to be the inspiration for Tolkein’s Rivendell in Lord of the Rings. Dominated by the massive white-capped peaks of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau and the valley walls that descend from them, your jaw may drop when you step off the train and see it all for the first time.
So, on finally arriving, I was determined—despite the jetlag—to carve out even an hour or two to explore Lauterbrunnen. We stored our luggage at the train station, then walked down the main street to enjoy a celebratory lunch and a beer on the Hotel Schützen patio. After our meal, we walked a short distance to the base of Staubbach Falls at the southern end of town, climbing its path to see the views up and down the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Feeling travel-day tiredness set in, we returned to the train station to retrieve our luggage to make our way to Mürren. Catching the Grütschalpbahn cable car across the street from the train station, we rode it up to the Grütschalp Station. Connecting from there to the tiny two-car narrow gauge Bergbahn Lauterbrunnen-Mürren alpine train, known as the BLM train, for a spectacular three-mile ride into Mürren, our base for the next two evenings.
On a clear day, try to secure a window seat on the left on the train to Mürren to get your first wildly impressive full-scale view of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau mountains that define this valley.
From the Mürren train station, we walked a short distance to Hotel Alpenblick, where we checked in, dropped our bags, and then stepped out to explore more. Walking a loop around this picturesque car-free town filled with Swiss-style chalets draped with cascading flowers was a pleasure. And one that we capped off with an al fresco drink at the Hotel Alpina patio to soak in the views.
We returned to our hotel restaurant for a dinner of traditional Swiss classics of rösti and pork sausage with sauerkraut—and after two long days of travel— an early bedtime. It was an excellent first day, and I could not wait for the next.
Is Hotel Alpenblick unavailable? Consider booking a room at the highly-rated Hotel Eiger, opposite the train station. Or check out this list of other places to stay in Mürren.
Day 2: Hiking Above Mürren: The Northface & Mountain View Trails
- Breakfast—included with our room at Hotel Alpenblick.
- Hike the Northface Trail, stopping at Schiltalp for a morning snack.
- Take a spur trail to Allmendhubel, then follow the Mountain View Trail to Grütschalp, taking the train back to Mürren.
- Savor a cheese fondue lunch on the Hotel Edelweiss patio in Mürren.
- Enjoy dinner al fresco at Stägerstübli in Mürren.
- Total steps = 26,227.
After waking up to enjoy a lovely breakfast of buffet-style fresh fruits, eggs, bread, jams, yogurts, cured meats, and cheeses, courtesy of our hotel and included in the price of our room, we set out for our first full day of hiking.
We originally planned to walk only the Northface Trail, a 5.2-mile loop that begins and ends in Mürren. However, given the gorgeous weather, and beautiful scenery, we extended our route to take a spur trail off the tail end of the Northface Trail up to Allmendhubel, the large hill behind Mürren, to then connect with the first half of the Mountain View Trail.
Our experience on the straightforward Northface Trail was delightful and quintessential Switzerland—cows in bells, 360-degree views of mountains, alp (mountain hut) rest stops for coffee, cakes, or cheese, and in July—pockets of wildflowers scattered throughout green valleys.
For a mid-hike break, we chose to stop at the Schiltalp, one of three mountain huts along the Northface Trail. While there, we shared a slice of homemade apfel-streuselkuchen—buttery, moist, and perfectly-textured apple streusel cake—and a memory-making view. Fueled by our snack, we continued along the Northface route until we saw the spur trail to Allmendhubel and the Moutain View Trail.
See our recorded route on AllTrails or below. Combining these trails, we hiked a total distance of 7.7 miles (12.4 kilometers) for a total elevation gain of 1500 feet (450 meters). We found the trail, which had excellent signage and well-maintained and marked paths, to be moderately challenging. Or click here to see the detail of our hike.
This lovely and extended walk afforded more vistas, winding its way through mountain meadows and eventually down to the Grütschalp station, where we caught the BLM train back to Mürren and an al fresco fondue lunch at Hotel Edelweiss.
Culture faux pas alert! Beer with fondue is frowned upon by the Swiss. Post-trip, I learned that drinking beer with fondue is a no-no—white wine only as it is better for digestion.
Beyond satisfied with our off-the-charts successful first hike, we took the rest of the afternoon to stretch and rest. For dinner, we enjoyed braised rabbit ragout and Gimmerwalder kid (goat) stew paired with two glasses of Riesling at Stägerstübli, a traditional Swiss restaurant within an easy walk from our hotel.
Day 3: The Schilthorn & Hiking Männlichen to Kliene Schiedegg
- Breakfast—included with our room. Check out from Hotel Alpenblick. Arrange for bag transfers to our Wengen hotel.
- Ride the connecting cable cars to Schilthorn and marvel at the 360-degree views.
- Return to Mürren for picnic supplies. Travel on to Wengen. Get a snack in Wengen at Bäkerei (Confisserie) Vincenz.
- Catch the Wengen-Männlichen cable car to Männlichen for the Royal Walk and the hike to Kleine Scheidegg.
- Stop at Restaurant Grindelwaldblick for a beer. Walk to Wengernalp and catch the Wengernalpbahn train back to Wengen.
- Check-in and dine at Hotel Bären.
- Total steps 22,957
If every day in the Jungfrau region of Switzerland was epic, this day perhaps was the most epic. We woke to clear weather and brilliant blue skies. Knowing cloud cover could descend any moment (spoiler—it never did), we quickly headed to catch an early morning cable car up to Schilthorn Peak.
The Schilthorn is a high summit (9,744 feet, or 2,970 meters) in the Bernese Alps, accessible by a series of cable cars. The peak is famous for its revolving restaurant and for being featured in the James Bond movie, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and a clear day, for its 360-degree views of the Swiss Alps.
To ascend the Schilthorn, we walked to the cable car station at the southern edge of Mürren and bought tickets at the counter, catching a partially full cable car before 9 AM. The ride up—which could be vertigo-inducing as the cars traveled high above deep green valleys and along cable wires that connect one mountaintop to another, was an adrenaline-fueled experience.
Only further enjoyed by disembarking the gondola and stepping out into the bright morning summer sun at Schilthorn peak. At the top, we explored the outdoor viewing platforms around the station perimeter in awe of the white-peaked mountain vistas stretching to the horizon.
Knowing the weather forecast for the day expected to stay clear, and after our fill of views, we decided to descend the Schilthorn to fit in one more signature Berner Oberland experience—walking the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg Panorama Trail. This wide gravel 4.4-mile (7.1-kilometer) gently downhill trail is heavily visited for its stunning and easy-to-access views of the Jungfrau Massif that winds through beautiful alpine meadows.
Although walkers can turn this trail into an out-and-back route, the best way to experience it is by beginning from the highest point at Männlichen, reachable by cable car from Wengen or Grindelwald and walking one-way downhill to the Kleine Scheidegg train station. By following the trail this way, walkers will keep the majestic mountains always in view.
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To get to Männlichen, and after our return trip down from the Schilthorn, we stopped for picnic supplies at the grocery in Mürren and made our way via trains and cable cars to the opposite side of the Lauterbrunnen Valley to Wengen. Disembarking the Wengernalpbahn train in Wengen, we stopped for a snack at centrally located Bäkerei (Confisserie) Vincenz before catching the across-the-street gondola to Männlichen.
At the summit, we followed signs to do the Royal Walk, a worthwhile 15 to 20-minute uphill side trip to a viewing platform with 360-degree views. Then, following signage and the other hikers, we headed back down the hill to begin the one-way walk to Kleine Scheidegg.
We stopped for breaks twice along this gorgeous trail, once for a picnic lunch at the benches overlooking the valley about two-thirds of the way down and second shortly before it ended for a beer on the patio at the trailside Restaurant Grindelwaldblick. Wanting to extend our walk upon reaching our technical endpoint at Kleine Scheidegg, we followed the path past the station that paralleled the Wegernalpbahn train line. From it, we walked through the countryside, which felt like an idealized and life-size Swiss alpine train set.
Making our way past rolling green fields, more cows in clanging bells neatly bordered by a mountain rail line with a precisely timed train passing on one side and massive mountain walls with waterfalls streaming off on the other. We walked down the mountain until we reached the Wengernalp station, where we caught a return train to Wengen.
I forgot to record our completion of this hike, though you can see the entire route here on AllTrails.
Once in Wengen, our base for the next two days, we checked into Hotel Bären. Retrieving our luggage transferred by our previous hotel, we settled into our room, whose balcony had the best mountain views of our trip. For dinner, we enjoyed a gourmet meal at the in-house restaurant at our hotel—one of the highest-rated eateries in Wengen. Cuisine highlights included the amuse-bouche-size portions of gourmet curry chickpeas, a tomato soup in a small cup, and an entire fried fish on a bed of tender leafy greens paired with a light creamy relish. It was an unforgettable and epic Swiss day.
Is Hotel Bären unavailable? Consider booking a stay next door at the highly-rated, though pricier, Hotel Edelweiss. Or check out this collection of other places to stay in Wengen.
Day 4: The Leiterhorn Loop, Trummelbach Falls & Gimmelwald
- Breakfast at Hotel Bären included with our room.
- Hike the Leiterhorn Loop Trail.
- Take a break for shopping in Wengen and a snack from Bäkerei (Confisserie) Vincenz.
- Take the train to Lauterbrunnen. Walk the valley floor to Trümmelbach Falls.
- From the falls, walk to Stechelberg Schiltornbahn cable car station to ride to Gimmelwald.
- Walk from Gimmelwald to Mürren, stopping for a late picnic lunch.
- Enjoy a beer in Mürren at the Hotel Eiger deck. Return to Wengen.
- Dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Sina in Wengen.
- Total steps = 31,693
One of the best things about staying at a hotel with one of the finest restaurants in town, the breakfasts were a delight, with a wide variety of freshly baked bread and cheeses, fluffy eggs, and the lightest and most flavorful breakfast sausages I have ever eaten. The morning of day four was spectacularly clear once again, which we took advantage of by tackling the lovely Lieterhorn Loop Trail that begins and ends in Wengen. This nearly three-mile moderate route above Wengen, with a 900-foot elevation gain, has beautiful views into the Lauterbrunnen Valley and, at its highest point, over the ridge and down into Interlaken.
I forgot to record this hike too! See the route of this trail on AllTrails.
After the hike, souvenir shopping, and a snack, we took the train back into Lauterbrunnen to see Trümmelbach Falls, walking 2.5 miles from the train station on flat pathways along the valley floor to reach it. Not just one waterfall, Trümmelbach Falls is a powerful force of water tumbling down a mountain that is exhilarating to see from different platforms within the mountain and outside of it. We found the falls a wonder and a worthwhile side trip.
Two things to know before visiting Trümmelbach Falls:
- Be prepared to get wet. If you plan to see the falls from its interior viewing platforms, you will likely get wet from the spray of crashing water. On hot summer days, this will be a welcome cool down. Though, on overcast or cool days, wear a rain jacket if you would like to avoid getting damp.
- You may experience vertigo from the interior viewing platforms. Visitors susceptible to vertigo or who tend to be uncomfortable with heights may feel less than comfortable looking down at torrents of rushing water shoot through narrow mountain caverns.
After visiting all the viewing platforms, we continued walking south along the valley floor another two miles to the Stechelberg cable car station to catch a car up to Gimmelwald to walk the path to Mürren. It was an enjoyable walk, though, in my opinion, given how many incredible vistas we saw over our week in the region—it was an overrated one by Rick Steves, who considers the village of Gimmelwald to be a Swiss alpine ideal, and not-to-be-missed destination, in his otherwise excellent Switzerland guidebook.
We wrapped up our walk into Mürren with a beer on the Hotel Eiger deck, catching the train and cable car back to Wengen, and dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Sina for average pizza and pasta meal and below-average service.
I used these three routes on AllTrails to plan our afternoon walk:
1. We walked the route from Lauterbrunnen to Trummelbach Falls (only doing this trail as a one-way).
2. Then, we walked the reverse of the trail from Stechelberg to Lauterbrunnen (from Trummelbach). We re-caught the trail after Trummelbach by walking through Breithorn Camping and crossing the bridge over the river there.
3. For our last leg, we walked the reverse of this Mürren to Gimmelwald trail.
Day 5: Laundry in Lauterbrunnen & the Pfingstegg to Oberer Gletscher Hike in Grindelwald
- Breakfast, check out, and transfer luggage from Hotel Bären to Hotel Gletschergarten in Grindelwald.
- Take the train to Lauterbrunnen for laundry and coffee. Continue via train to Grindelwald, changing trains at the Zweilütschinen station.
- Walk to Hotel Glestchergarten from the train station and check-in.
- Take the cable car up to Pfingstegg and eat a late lunch.
- Hike from Pfingstegg to Oberer Gletscher, following the Wanderweg path into Grindelwald.
- Enjoy an outstanding prix fixe dinner at Hotel Gletschergarten.
- Total steps = 22,778.
Our morning began as a laundry and transfer day. Although it turns out we later learned we could have done laundry at our Grindelwald hotel, we enjoyed a bit of downtime in Lauterbrunnen for coffees and the challenge of figuring out how to make the washing machines and dryers adjacent to the hostel work, reminding us of our round-the-world backpacking days. With freshly laundered clothes—we caught a train out of Lauterbrunnen to the Zweilütschinen station. From there, we changed trains to reach Grindelwald.
Traveling light with our day packs and laundry only—we had transferred our heavier bags ahead of us—we chose to walk the 15-minutes from the Grindelwald train station past the most touristy parts of town to our lovely three-star and family-owned Hotel Gletschergarten in a much prettier and quieter area.
Grindelwald, which sits in the Lütschental Valley, is one of the larger Bernese Oberland towns and a well-known gateway for summer hiking. From arrival and during the three nights of our stay, the long-time and helpful owners of the Hotel Gletschergarten, Gabriella and Gary, were a wonder to rely upon for their advice and guidance.
After checking us in early, we asked for their recommendations on hikes to do in the afternoon. Given the overcast day and low cloud cover, Gary and Gabriella recommended taking the Pfingstegg cable car up to the restaurant for lunch and then hiking the trail leading from it to Oberer Gletscher, keeping us below the cloud cover for the afternoon.
It was an excellent recommendation and a great way to spend the second part of our day catching views of an entirely new valley. Upon reaching Oberer Gletscher, we realized that instead of taking the bus back down into Grindelwald, we could follow the Wanderweg hiking trails into town and directly to our hotel.
See our recorded route on AllTrails or below. We hiked a total distance of 3.4 miles (5.5 kilometers) for a total elevation gain of almost 400 feet (122 meters). We found the trail mostly easy, with some sections moderately challenging. Or click here to see the detail of our hike.
For dinner that evening, we took advantage of the pre-set and prix fixe dinner offered at the Gletschergarten, thoroughly enjoying the four-course meal. We found the dishes expertly prepared, the quality of the ingredients superior, and the service excellent. Our favorites were the zucchini soup, the lamb with mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, and roasted tomatoes. The coconut ice cream with pineapple carpaccio provided an excellent finish to the meal.
Is Hotel Gletschergarten unavailable? Consider booking a room at next-door and highly-rated, Hotel Fiescherblick, recently opened and run by Gary and Gabriella’s (owners of the Gletschergarten) adult children. Or check out this list of other places to stay in Grindelwald.
Day 6: Hiking Bussalp to Bort to Bachalpsee & Joining the Wednesday Street Festival
- Breakfast at Hotel Glestschergarten—included in the price of our room.
- Catch a bus to Bussalp and hike to Bort gondola station.
- Enjoy lunch at the Bort restaurant patio.
- Hike from Bort to Bachalpsee, continuing to the First gondola station.
- Enjoy a well-deserved beer and chocolate at First. Ride the gondola down into Grindelwald.
- Get dinner and listen to live music at Grindelwald’s weekly Wednesday summertime street festival.
- Total steps 33,637.
On day six, we woke to our cloudiest and wettest morning in Switzerland. Unsure how to make the most of it, we once again relied on the resourceful Gletschergarten owners, Gary and Gabriella, for hiking and trail advice. After checking live mountain cams to gauge the height of the cloud cover, they recommended we take the bus to Bussalp to walk the nearly four miles from there to the Bort gondola station. This one-way route would keep us below the clouds and less likely to get wet.
With our plan set, we hustled to catch the bus to Bussalp—there is only one an hour—from the lot in front of the train station. We were one of only two couples riding the bus that cloudy July morning, promising an uncrowded trail. After a 30-minute bus ride through farmland and winding mountain roads where the bus would alert small hamlets and stops with its musical horn, we made it to the Bussalp rest stop and our trailhead.
We enjoyed walking this quiet path through farmland and forest. And happily, three-quarters of the way through our hike, the weather began to clear, and the clouds lifted, unveiling blue skies, sunshine, and breathtaking vistas of the north face of Eiger.
Thrilled to have sunny skies again, we enjoyed an al fresco fondue lunch at Bort, complete with mini pull-apart bread rolls, pickled vegetables, potatoes, and sweet ice teas. Following it, with the weather still clear, we decided to extend our hike to walk three miles up to Bachalpsee, an alpine lake surrounded by white-capped mountains.
With the most tiring part of this ascent at the beginning with a series of steep switchbacks shortly after Bort, the hike leveled out just past Berghaus Waldspitz and above the tree line. From there, the path continued with a gradual climb on a well-maintained route following the curve of the steep valley walls leading into Bachalpsee.
Unfortunately, our good weather did not hold, and as we approached the pristine mountain lake, clouds had descended, obscuring views. Since it was already late afternoon, we decided not to wait for the weather to clear. Instead, we decided to walk along the popular and busy path the final two miles to the First gondola station for a well-deserved beer and chocolate break before catching the gondola several thousand feet back into the valley into Grindelwald.
See our recorded route on AllTrails or below. We hiked a total distance of 10.1 miles (16.3 kilometers) with a total elevation gain of just under 3,100 feet (945 meters). We combined several trails, finding some sections level and easy, and others varying from moderately to more challenging. Click here to see the detail of our hike.
For dinner, we were thrilled to be in town for the weekly Wednesday summertime street fair in the heart of Grindelwald. We spent the evening sampling various foods and beer from vendors and listening to live music while strolling the closed street and soaking up the Swiss alpine atmosphere.
Day 7: Hiking the Eiger Trail from Alpiglen to Eigergletscher
- Breakfast at Hotel Gletschergarten, included with our room.
- Take the train to Alpiglen to hike the Eiger Trail up to Eigergletscher.
- Lunch at Eigergletscher restaurant overlooking the glacier.
- Hike down to Kleine Schiedegg and catch the train back down to Grindelwald.
- Enjoy another excellent prix fixe dinner at Hotel Gletschergarten.
- Total steps = 22,250.
Despite the awful weather forecast of clouds and rain for this day, our final full day in the Bernese Oberland, we gratefully woke up to another bluebird sunny Swiss mountain morning. Taking advantage of the clear weather, we decided to hike part of the iconic Eiger Trail. Following Gary’s advice, and after breakfast, we took the train to Alpiglen to walk the trail to Eigergletscher.
Thrilled with our plan and the unexpected pleasure of another perfect weather day, I nearly ran to catch our train, until my husband pointed out it was probably better—given the uphill climb ahead of us—to pace ourselves. Though I was right to be excited. The trail offered more stunning views of the green and verdant valley framed by white-capped mountains, made even more brilliant by the glow of the early morning sun.
Following the trail and taking time for pictures, we made our way to the top, passing under cable cars traveling up from the valley floor in Grindelwald. Once at the Eigergletscher station, I found the restaurant at the lowest level of the station with a terrace that directly looked out onto the massive glacier on Eiger.
The view from this terrace on a gorgeous sunny day directly out to the glacier was unparalleled—likely the best lunch view of my life. And to further top it off, our meals of rösti—a potato cake or hash brown topped with meat and cheese, were delicious and the perfect cap to an unbelievable hike.
After lunch and from the Eigergletscher station, we walked down to Kleine Scheidegg, stopping for more views and catching the train back into Grindlewald for our final night in Switzerland, returning to Hotel Glestchergarten to enjoy one more lovely four-course meal and wrap up a dream of a trip.
See our recorded route on AllTrails or below. We hiked a total distance of 6.2 miles (10 kilometers) with a total elevation gain of just under 2,700 feet (823 meters). The first half+ of the hike was an uphill climb which made it challenging. However, the path is easy to follow, well-maintained, and rewarding. Taken slow and steady it is doable by various skill levels. Click here to see the detail of our hike.
Where to Stay: Mürren, Wengen & Grindelwald
Summertime in Switzerland, especially with its collection of one-star to three-star hotels may be more affordable than you think. Though, and whichever your preference, be sure to book your accommodations well in advance, especially during the peak summer travel season.
Mürren: Where to Stay
In Mürren, we stayed at Hotel Alpenblick, a lovely 2-star chalet-style hotel run by Janet and Thomas—the married front desk manager and chef.
In mid-July the room cost less than the average US hotel room in a vacation destination. Although still not a bargain, its pricing felt affordable in comparison. Our room was lovely, clean, and had everything we needed. Plus, the mountain views from our balcony were spectacular. And, the hotel’s breakfast included in the price of our room, and the dinner, which was not—were both delicious.
Is Hotel Alpenblick unavailable? Consider booking a room at the highly-rated Hotel Eiger, opposite the train station. Or check out this list of other places to stay in Mürren.
Wengen: Where to Stay
In Wengen, we stayed at the two-star Hotel Bären—where our immaculately clean and well-laid-out double-room balcony provided even better views than the Alpenblick.
In addition, this hotel which is only a short walk from the train station has one of the best restaurants in town, and its lovely outdoor patio enjoys the same view as our room. Like at the Alpenblick, our excellent breakfasts at the Bären were included in the price of our room, making for a great value.
Is Hotel Bären unavailable? Consider booking a stay next door at the highly-rated, though pricier, Hotel Edelweiss. Or check out this collection of other places to stay in Wengen.
Grindelwald: Where to Stay
In Grindelwald, we stayed at the three-star Hotel Gletschergarten and absolutely loved it. Refreshingly located out of the core overly touristy town center, it is a 15-minute walk from the train station.
In my opinion, this less crowded and quieter part of town, which still offers proximity to restaurants and services, is the best part of Grindelwald to stay in. The Gletschergarten is an aesthetically pleasing multi-story Swiss chalet hotel with a dark wood exterior covered by brilliantly colored flowers cascading off every balcony level.
Is Hotel Gletschergarten unavailable? Consider booking a room at next-door and highly-rated, Hotel Fiescherblick, recently opened and run by Gary and Gabriella’s (owners of the Gletschergarten) adult children. Or check out this list of other places to stay in Grindelwald.
A family-run hotel in operation since 1899, we greatly appreciated the assistance and advice of its married owners, Gary and Gabriella, who happened to be two of the most service-oriented and efficient lodging proprietors we have ever met. Each day, when making our hiking plans around weather forecasts, we relied on their expertise and guidance to help us choose the best routes. Plus, we loved the Gletschergarten restaurant, which offered an excellent nightly prix fixe dinner that provided one of our favorite meals of the trip.
For a truly unique lodging experience—though with fewer services and amenities, consider staying in a traditional Swiss chalet or mountain hut. These accommodations on the outskirts of Grindelwald vary from rustic to luxe and offer stunning views and a chance to escape the crowds. Try a local site like Griwarent.ch and search for chalets in Grindelwald.
Related Reading & Watching
If you are traveling to Switzerland, check out my “Switzerland: The Best Books to Read Before a Trip” booklist below to get a pre-trip reading list.
Or consider picking up my preferred guidebooks—Rick Steves Switzerland and Frommer’s Switzerland.
Additionally, check out this hour-long Q&A video answering all the questions a first-time visitor to the Bernese Oberland will have. It is part of the Where to Go Next? Instagram video series I participate in with Juli Hall of Celebrate & Explore and Laura Cox of Travel 80 By 80 every month.
Additional Trip Planning Resources
To further help you with travel planning, I share my go-to resources for every trip below.
Google Flights. My first research stop for affordable flights for every trip. Learn why here.
Google Hotels. Use its “Where to stay” button to discover the best neighborhoods to base your visit.
Booking.com. For hotel and rental bookings, I appreciate its flexible cancellation, candid user reviews, discounts, loyalty program, and easy-to-use interface.
Viator, Get Your Guide, & Airbnb Experiences. Quickly find and book highly-rated tours and activities on these sites.
Google Travel Things to Do & Google Maps. Find more things to do in your destination on Google Travel, then record where you want to visit on a custom Google Maps list.
AllTrails. Love to hike? Me too. I religiously use AllTrails to discover hiking and biking trails and download its offline maps to manage my hikes.
Guide Along. 5-star self-guided audio tours that are GPS-compatible for US road trips and national parks. We loved the Glacier National Park tour.
Insure My Trip. I never travel internationally without trip insurance. Learn why here. My preferred place to shop and compare policies is InsureMyTrip.com.
Plus, check out the 15 travel apps I use on trips, my preferred guidebooks, and my free customizable travel itinerary template, downloadable in four file formats.
About the author: Janice Moskoff is a travel writer and blogger who loves hiking, exploring the world, and reading. She writes to inspire travel-loving families, adult friends, and couples on her blog, Gather and Go Travel. Check out her bio, learn how she became a blogger, and discover how to work with her. Sign up for her monthly Discovery Newsletter to get her latest travel recommendations and how-to’s.
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Affiliate Disclosure: Some of the links on this page may be affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I earn a commission if you make a purchase. I only recommend products and companies I use. And the income goes to keeping the site community-supported and ads minimal.
Welcome to Gather and Go Travel, a blog inspiring families, adult friends, and couples to explore US and international destinations and to get outdoors. I am Janice, an experienced traveler to over 50 countries and a travel writer, book lover, and blogger. Learn more about me, read our story, and how to work with me.
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