The Ultimate Gozo Itinerary: 4 Days Exploring In the Spring
- Updated: 02/01/2024
- Janice
As an American, I love traveling to Europe in the spring—the flights are cheaper, the crowds are smaller, and the prices on everything are lower versus the high-season summertime. I am on an onging quest to find the best springtime destinations to visit in Europe.
For our family, Malta was a huge spring-trip homerun.
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It delivered everything I could have hoped for—great weather, fascinating history, beautiful architecture, delicious food, and plenty of natural beauty—especially on Gozo.
So, if you are looking for a unique and off-the-beaten-path Mediterranean destination, Gozo—particularly in the spring—will delight you. Follow our 4-day itinerary with recommendations to make the most of your Gozo visit.
In the summer, Malta, including Gozo, is hotter and drier. Expect to see less green and more desert scrub-like landscapes. Although ideal for swimming, boating, snorkeling, and scuba diving, summer temps make it less ideal to enjoy the walks and hikes we did unless you plan to carry plenty of water or do them early in the morning or later in the day when the sun is not at its strongest.
Need more reasons to visit Malta? Check out this list of 17 reasons why Malta should be at the top of your trip list.
Why Visit Gozo
Gozo is one of three inhabited islands of the Maltese archipelago, located in the Mediterranean Sea. It is an independent EU country, 50 miles south of Sicily and ~200 miles north of Libya, where the primary languages are Maltese and English.
Malta has been a crossroads of civilization for millennia. Visitors can expect to explore Neolithic ruins, walled fortresses, and settlements once home to Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, French, and British.
Watch the Google Earth clip to see where to find it.
Despite its small size at ~26 square miles, Gozo is packed with stunning landscapes, rich history, and excellent cuisine, making it an ideal place to visit. And one that is easy to navigate.
With its crystal-clear waters, dramatic coastlines with hidden coves, and charming villages, Gozo offers a unique and authentic away-from-the-crowds experience that will charm even the most jaded of frequent European travelers.
Check out my itinerary below to get ideas for your Gozo visit.
4 Days in Gozo At-a-Glance
Day 1: Arrive in Gozo, Check-In, Dinner in Xlendi
- Take the Gozo Fast Ferry from Valletta to Mgarr Harbor in Gozo.
- Collect our rental car from Gozo Quad Hire.
- Drive to Viewpoint Boutique Living and check-in.
- Enjoy the view from the pool and a glass of prosecco.
- Dinner at delicious Ta’ Karolina in Xlendi.
How to use this map: In the map header, click the square tab to the left of my logo or click the enlarge frame to the right to view detail. You can save the map to “Your Places” on Google Maps by clicking the star next to the map name. Or you can share it by clicking the share icon.
After one more day exploring the island of Malta, we took the Gozo Fast Ferry from its wharf side departure point in Valletta just northeast of Fort Lascaris.
Pulling our suitcases after us, we lined up in the queue for an afternoon ferry to Mgarr Harbor in Gozo, buying tickets at the ferry office before boarding.
After a 45-minute journey running parallel to the Maltese coastline, we docked at Mgarr Harbor, disembarking to meet our pick-up from Gozo Quad Hire, where we had pre-arranged the rental of an automatic transmission car with the help of our lodging.
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Once set in the car, we steeled our right-side driving nerves to drive on the left through the outskirts of Victoria and the warren of winding village streets to make our way to Viewpoint Boutique Living, our highly rated seven-room boutique hotel just outside the picturesque seaside village of Xlendi.
Arriving successfully, we checked in with Doreen, the helpful, friendly, and deeply knowledgeable owner of Viewpoint Boutique Living. We loved our affordable double family room and the incredible view from the pool—enjoyed with a glass of prosecco taken from our room’s mini fridge.
Taking Doreen’s advice and assistance with making a reservation, we dined that evening in nearby Xlendi overlooking the water on an excellent meal of spicy and smoky mussels shown below, duck breast, nero pasta with seafood, and ravioli porcini at Ta’ Karolina—one of our top three meals of the trip.
Day 2: Gharb to Gharb Coastal Hike & Victoria
- Delicious breakfast included with our room at Viewpoint Boutique Living.
- Drive to the village of Gharb, park, and buy a picnic lunch at a local grocery.
- Follow the Gharb, It-Tieqa, and Ghasri Circular (8.0 mile) walking route in AllTrails.
- Picnic lunch at the top of Wied il-Mielah.
- Return to our hotel to rest and relax.
- Drive to Victoria, park at the Citadel, and walk the ramparts at sunset.
- Dinner at Maldonado Bistro in Victoria.
How to use this map: In the map header, click the square tab to the left of my logo or click the enlarge frame to the right to view detail. You can save the map to “Your Places” on Google Maps by clicking the star next to the map name. Or you can share it by clicking the share icon.
Of the several enjoyable things about staying at Viewpoint Boutique Living, the ample and delicious breakfast included in the price of our stay and enjoyed under a canopy on the pool deck tops the list.
In addition to the main dishes we had preordered the night before—like a spinach and tomato frittata, avocado toast with a poached egg, a full English breakfast, and salmon with eggs—Doreen and her husband provide a generous first course of toasts, fruits, and yogurts.
Breakfast wrapped up with a selection of delicious baked goods and sweets that we were always too full to eat but took along for hiking snacks later in the morning.
Of the several enjoyable things about staying at Viewpoint Boutique Living, the ample and delicious breakfast included in the price of our stay and enjoyed under a canopy on the pool deck tops the list.
Fully satisfied, we drove into the nearby village of Gharb to park our car opposite the main parish church, a beautiful baroque-style structure from 17th century, and to shop for picnic supplies from the local grocery.
From the main Gharb piazza, we began the 8-mile circular walk that would take us through the town, along fields bursting with spring flowers and some of the most dramatic coastline of the island.
To follow this route which goes by several names, such as the Gharb to Gharb Walk, the Gharb, It-Tieqa, and Ghasri Circular, or the Ta’ Gurdan Walk, we used two resources.
In addition to downloading the offline contour map from AllTrails, we used the “Ta’ Gurdan Walk’ information pamphlet, which includes route notes and is published and provided for free by Gozo Tourism Association.
One of the best features of the paid AllTrails+ membership is download access for offline hiking contour maps. With these maps—I can GPS-track our hiking progress without draining my phone battery or using excessive data.
Although we did not complete the entire walk as the kids got tired after climbing to the lighthouse, where we arranged a ride share (Bolt) to pick us up, we thoroughly enjoyed every moment of this entirely worthwhile and beautiful route along Gozo’s rugged coastline.
Highlights along the way included trails surrounded by colorful spring flowers, visiting the 15th-century San Dmitri chapel, which offered excellent views up to the Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse in the distance, and walking the lunar-like wind-sculpted landscape of Gozo’s limestone northern coast.
In addition, we deeply appreciated the raw beauty of the Wied il-Mielah gorge where on the windy day we visited, we could see the ocean crashing through and about its massive rock arch.
After returning to our car and our hotel for a chance to rest and relax, we drove out again to nearby Victoria, following Doreen’s advice, to park at the Citadel lot and climb the ramparts of this recently rebuilt 16-century fortress to view the sunset and incredible views of the island.
From there, we walked a short distance to nearby Maldonado Bistro to arrive in time for our evening reservation. This restaurant, recommended and booked by Doreen, was my absolute favorite of the trip.
Within its castle-like interior lined with softly-lit stone archways and framed with recessed bookshelves full of colorful cookbooks, this restaurant served among the most perfectly cooked food I have eaten while traveling.
We loved the tapenades with the fresh bread of different varieties. The local wine was light and lovely. And my main dish of truffle agnolotti was balanced, subtle, and outstanding.
My daughter’s herb-stuffed chicken was perhaps the most perfectly cooked poultry I have ever eaten, paired with precision-roasted and braised vegetables.
For dessert—we had three of which my favorite was the multi-layered gateaux with nuts and ice cream.
For such a gourmet meal, we found the prices reasonable and even low for such an elevated culinary experience.
Day 3: Salt Pans, Wied-il-Ghasri, Xaghra, & Ramla Beach
- Delicious breakfast included with our room at Viewpoint Boutique Living.
- Drive to Xwejni Bay, and park along Triq Ix-Xwejni near the salt shops. Walk the road west to view the Salt Pans. Continue to stunning Wied il-Ghasri gorge.
- Drive to Xaghra. Eat lunch al fresco at Cafe Reale.
- Drive to Ramla Beach and stroll the beach, then hike the trail to Tal Mixta Cave for sweeping views.
- Walk up the other side of the bay past the abandoned Ulysses Lodge to closed Calypso Cave for more views.
- Return to our hotel to rest and relax.
- Dinner at trendy Terrazzo in Xlendi.
How to use this map: In the map header, click the square tab to the left of my logo or click the enlarge frame to the right to view detail. You can save the map to “Your Places” on Google Maps by clicking the star next to the map name. Or you can share it by clicking the share icon.
After such an incredible second day on Gozo, I felt there was little chance of equaling it. Of course, given the wonders of this tiny island, I should have known I would be blown away yet again.
Following another excellent breakfast and Doreen’s what-to-do-in-Gozo advice, we drove north toward Xwejni Bay to park adjacent to the salt pans where locals have been harvesting salt for centuries, to walk along the coast to view their stark beauty as we made our way to the jaw-droppingly beautiful Wied-il-Ghashri gorge.
Upon reaching the gorge, we ignored the warning signs and followed the stairs to this secluded inlet with crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling in warmer and calmer weather.
As it was spring when we visited and cooler and the water rougher, swimming was not an option, but sitting while gazing and eating a snack was.
Another benefit of visiting in the spring, this small gorge area which can become crowded in the summer, is and in comparison, sparsely visited in the spring. At the end of March, we saw no more than 10 to 15 other people during our 30-minute stay.
From the gorge, we headed back toward our car, stopping along the way to get a closer view of the salt pans and at a salt store to buy Gozitan salt to bring home.
If you like to cook, buy Gozitan salt as a souvenir. We cook frequently and have been using the salt we purchased near the salt pans in salads, focaccias, and roast vegetables—it is excellent and superior to anything we can buy at our local grocery.
Hungry from walking, we drove to and parked in the picturesque village of Xaghra to enjoy lunch in one of its several al fresco restaurants ringing its large piazza.
We ate a mix of paninis, pizzas, and salads outdoors at Cafe Reale, washed down with incredibly affordable beers while enjoying the sun and people watching.
After lunch, we drove down to Ramla Beach, one of Gozo’s best beaches, with a wide swath of red-hued sand framed by hills topped with caves.
Although the temperature hovered in the upper 60s during our visit, the sun made it feel warmer, which helped the many determined sunbathers and swimmers visiting the beach that day.
Strolling down pretty Ramla Beach, we headed to its eastern edge to follow the narrow and unmarked footpath up to the mouth of Tal Mixta Cave. Getting to the cave this way offered a tremendous and gorgeous shortcut offering amazing views versus driving up the backside, parking, and walking up the road.
If you are considering hiking up to the mouth of Tal Mixta Cave from Ramla Beach, know the unmarked trail, which takes about 20 minutes to complete, is relatively simple to follow. Though the footpath gets steeper toward the top, requiring some scrambling and handholds, which makes the hike slightly challenging. To ensure we were on the correct route, I zoomed in on a contour map in AllTrails for Gozo to view the dashed line footpaths not visible on Google Maps.
And for our poor tired kids, just because I believe that no hike or view should be left undone, we hiked up the south side of the beach past the restrooms to reach the now-closed (due to a collapse) Calypso Cave, alleged to have been the home of the nymph Calypso, of Homer’s Odyssey.
To get to this cave and the view, hike past the abandoned and somewhat creepy Ulysses Lodge, then continue along the road to the cave entrance.
From Ramla Beach, we returned to Viewpoint Living for rest and relaxation before driving back into nearby Xlendi to dine at trendy Terrazzo—in a prime cliffside location with beautiful views up and down the Xlendi coast.
Although we found the bread here, which is paired with butter and chives, to be the best we had anywhere in Malta, the service was uncommonly slow, likely due to several large parties being seated at once. In addition, we found the food preparation inconsistent and the prices higher than other similar restaurants.
Although we probably picked a poor night to try Terrazzo— perhaps it was understaffed and overbooked—given another opportunity, we may have opted to eat elsewhere.
Day 4: Explore Dwjera Bay & Xlendi Walk
- Delicious breakfast included with our room at Viewpoint Boutique Living.
- Drive to Dwjera, park in the lot, and explore the Blue Hole and Coral Gardens along its coast. Follow the trail to Dwjera Bay and to the top of Crocodile Rock.
- Return to the parking area and walk to Inland Sea for a 15-minute boat ride.
- Stop at Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village for shopping.
- Drive to Xlendi, park, and enjoy a seaside lunch at Pirates Galley.
- Walk the cliffside steps in Xlendi to the viewpoint and down to Carolina Grotto.
- Return to our hotel to rest and relax.
- Dinner at Ta’ Tona in Mgarr Harbor.
How to use this map: In the map header, click the square tab to the left of my logo or click the enlarge frame to the right to view detail. You can save the map to “Your Places” on Google Maps by clicking the star next to the map name. Or you can share it by clicking the share icon.
Prioritizing for the things we wanted to do most today, our last full day in Gozo, and with Doreen’s input, we opted to drive out to Dwjera to view its stunning bay and coastline, once home to the iconic Azure Window rock formation which unfortunately collapsed in 2017, though still has much to commend it.
Parking in the main Dwjera lot, we followed the paths to the right to make our way to beautiful rock formations and sheltered pools of the stunning Coral Garden area. Unprepared for these pretty views, we soaked it in, feeling awe at another day of beauty in Gozo.
Next, we backed-tracked through the lot and up the road to catch the trail leading to the cliff-ringed Dwerja Bay. We passed only a handful of people as we made our way along the coast and down to the bay waterline.
Beyond one other couple who kept on hiking soon after we arrived, our family had this stunning view to ourselves.
Once back at the main parking lot, we followed signs and walked the short distance to the Inland Sea to catch a €4 per person 15-minute boat tour to experience the surrounding cliffs, caves, and turquoise waters within.
Refreshed with cold drinks from a kiosk on the shore after our tour, we headed back toward Xlendi for lunch, stopping at the Ta’ Diegi Crafts Village for shopping.
In Xlendi, we grabbed a lowkey lunch at Pirates Galley before heading up the cliffside steps just past the Ta’ Karolina restaurant to catch panoramic views and follow the path down and into pretty Carolina Grotto.
We finished our last night in Gozo with a reservation and dinner at Ta’ Tona in Mgarr Harbor, Doreen’s favorite restaurant on the island. The service was excellent, the clientele a mix of tourists and Maltese, and the seafood specialties we tried were expertly cooked and delicious.
It was a perfect epicurean ending to our wonderful four days on Gozo.
Related Reading
If you are traveling to Malta, check out my “Malta: The Best Books to Read Before a Trip” booklist below to get a Malta reading list.
Then, check out this list of resources for more trip ideas and to help you prep and pack for your trip.
Additional Trip Planning Resources
To further help you with travel planning, I share my go-to resources for every trip below.
Google Flights. My first research stop for affordable flights for every trip. Learn why here.
Google Hotels. Use its “Where to stay” button to discover the best neighborhoods to base your visit.
Booking.com. For hotel and rental bookings, I appreciate its flexible cancellation, candid user reviews, discounts, loyalty program, and easy-to-use interface.
Viator, Get Your Guide, & Airbnb Experiences. Quickly find and book highly-rated tours and activities on these sites.
Google Travel Things to Do & Google Maps. Find more things to do in your destination on Google Travel, then record where you want to visit on a custom Google Maps list.
AllTrails. Love to hike? Me too. I religiously use AllTrails to discover hiking and biking trails and download its offline maps to manage my hikes.
Guide Along. 5-star self-guided audio tours that are GPS-compatible for US road trips and national parks. We loved the Glacier National Park tour.
Insure My Trip. I never travel internationally without trip insurance. Learn why here. My preferred place to shop and compare policies is InsureMyTrip.com.
Plus, check out the 15 travel apps I use on trips, my preferred guidebooks, and my free customizable travel itinerary template, downloadable in four file formats.
About the author: Janice Moskoff is a travel writer and blogger who loves hiking, exploring the world, and reading. She writes to inspire travel-loving families, adult friends, and couples on her blog, Gather and Go Travel. After attending the University of Michigan undergraduate business school and following a career in retail strategy and event management, she returned to focus on her first love—travel. Read her bio, learn how she became a blogger, and discover how to work with her. Sign up for her monthly Discovery Newsletter for travel recs and how-to’s. Or follow her on social media (@gatherandgotravel).
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Welcome to Gather and Go Travel, a blog inspiring families, adult friends, and couples to explore US and international destinations and to get outdoors. I am Janice, a world traveler to 50+ countries, a travel writer/blogger, and a book lover. Learn more about me, read our story, and how to work with me. Get my latest updates, how-tos, and trip ideas in my monthly Discovery Newsletter.
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